The 10 for S/S 2010
Smoke & Mirrors’ curated list of highlights from the latest designer RTW collections
10. Rad Hourani / Spring 2010 / New York Fashion Week
Rad’s latest proves to be more than recession-ready with its transformable, reversible, zippified creations. Jackets become vests. Pants become shorts. You get the picture. You only need one.
9. Manish Arora / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
New Delhi designer, Manish Arora’s S/S ’10 collection presented a tougher take on his rhinestoned obsessions. Tech-warrior body apparatuses looking like astro-armor covered the heavily boned party dresses. Arora’s imagination proves once and again that there’s much more than tradition to India’s fashion community.
8. Rodarte / Spring 2010 / New York Fashion Week &
Balmain / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
The Mulleavy sisters and Christophe Decarnin must’ve felt like the rest of us while designing their most recent collections. Bleak, apoco-looks reigned supreme in what looked to be the designer’s next big blockbusters. Tina Turner in Mad Max played muse to both collections’ new world order premises, adding a level of toughened tread to the lines.
7. Burberry Prorsum / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week &
Marios Schwab / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week
Beauty never looked so good. This spring, it felt as if designers were stuck under their own shadows, pessimistic in their views of tomorrow. Instead, London’s rising stars brought the pretty back. Schwab put three-looks into one while Bailey draped for days. The looks represented a shift away from their peers’ preoccupations with apocalyptic distopias.
6. Gareth Pugh / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
The young Brit’s costumed gothic predispositions for the first time veered away from blacks and whites to develop a foggier feel. Essentially overcast. In the process, Pugh has brought an entirely new light to the grayscale. And for that, we’re thankful.
5. Mary Katrantzou / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week &
Mark Fast / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week &
Fashion East x Holly Fulton / Spring 2010 / London Fashion Week
Classic? What’s that? The British fashion council’s equivalent to the ‘Brat Pack‘ delivers the most forward in prints, knits, and shapes. Consider their looks to be those you’ll see in lights ten years from now.
4. Lanvin / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
For Elbaz to add me to his fanbase, he had to look to J.Lo, toilet paper, and serpents. Strangely enough, it worked luxuriously.
3. Viktor & Rolf / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
The design duo took a chainsaw to classic Cinderella ball gowns to create optical illusions on the runway for Spring. The best way to describe it: impossible.
2. Haider Ackermann / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
I’m a sucker for Ackermann‘s aesthetic. His trademark silhouettes elongate any and every figure. His in-depth experiments with pigment have assisted to provide the line its signature earthy aura. His latest outing delivered some of his most delicious offerings to date; cinched and gathered, he provides peasantry a safari alternative.
1. Alexander McQueen / Spring 2010 / Paris Fashion Week
I grew up in the theater, so, when it comes to fashion, McQueen‘s always been my savior. His theatrics have never ceased to amaze both the drama and fashion lover in me. His latest show boasted some of the most mind-blowing pieces seen on the runway since Thierry Mugler’s day. The practicality argument doesn’t apply when deciphering McQueen‘s studied creative approach. Thinking to 2095, he’s designed the post-icecap human; one with fins, gills, and hooves. His brilliance goes beyond ready-to-wear and lands closer to the range of couture mindsets. Always a forward thinker, don’t expect him to dull down anytime soon. McQueen pushes fashion in directions no one thought fathomable.
Honorable mentions: coming soon.
photos courtesy of wwd, style.com, & fashionspot