ADAM / Spring 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Who knew American designer, Adam Lippes, was such a Francophile?
Amongst the mismatched thrash of Bjork and Sleigh Bells (mixed by
Michael Gaubert and Steven Brinke), came a collection of looks
inspired by French actress, Charlotte Gainsbourg’s character in The
City of Your Final Destination.
The stage was set in a cream tone all to often associated with Phoebe
Philo’s recent camel-colored endeavors, but quickly became ADAM’s
world once models took to the runway. First up, a copper linen blazer
open atop a high-waisted white denim sailor pant helped to position
the imagination. Use of ivory lace, eyelet, and chiffon seemed more
mature than ever while still providing a sense of prairie pretty.
Countryside aesthetics hardened by leather assisted in keeping an
edge. Sumo wrestler high-buns (said to be inspired by a certain
someone of the ADAM design team) by Rudi Lewis also helped to
modernize the French femme look.
Label mainstays, such as bejeweled cocktail dresses and linen summer
sweaters were offset by crop tops, leather shorts, and tuxedo jackets.
Perhaps the collection’s most wearable item came as a pair of
high-waisted bell bottoms in peach, lava, and black, that were so well
tailored you could see the front row’s eyes perk. ADAM’s best, though,
came as the show’s finale piece; an intricately embroidered cut-out
chiffon gown that so strikingly challenged Lippes’ days of underwear
and basics. Could it be a hint at the recently acquired (by St.
Louis clothing giant Kellwood) contemporary ready-to-wear label moving
up a tier? From the look of ADAM’s latest and the idea behind it, it
surely appears so.
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