an MH blog
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Category Archives: fashion
Iris Van Herpen / Escapism Couture / 2011
Iris Van Herpen / Synesthesia Couture / 2010
Haider Ackermann is on a roll. Much like last season, his fan base is growing by the minute, especially due to current rumors of his move to Dior or Givenchy. Whether or not this is true, he showed what will go down as his most divine collection yet. His latest outing proved to be another magnum opus, brimming with his signature aesthetics and edged-up glamour. Beginning with darks and jewel tones, the palette progressed into new territory – ivory. Vibrant, luxurious silks reflected light up and down the female body to create an ultra-slimming effect undoubtedly a ‘pro’ in most women’s minds. Leather jackets offset by exuberant velvet and silk wide leg pants and scarf collar tops felt perfectly edited, refined-yet-edgy. [Read the rest of my review on TheFashionSpot here.]
Vintage YSL Rive Gauche silk striped buttondown
Givenchy Couture ’11 kimono
Vintage Cross Colours tee
Challah Bread ring
Christopher Kane F/W ’11 jelly bag
“Scary Spice” doll
Alexander McQueen ‘Savage Beauty’ retrospective book
Holly Fulton F/W ’11 “Lips” mongolian fur clutch
Vintage Comme des Garcons button-back shirt
Full Haider Ackermann S/S ’11 gittup
Russian Vogue‘s 10th Anniversary
Limited Commemorative Edition Designer Russian Dolls are killer.
Can you tell who’s who? See if you were right after the jump. Continue reading
Thanks to my girl, Julia over at Modelizing for these incredible LV window pics.
One of my favorites, Francesco Scognamiglio, debuts his latest adverts.
Bande Des Quatres is the latest in ringometry – a science providing fingers with the happiness they deserve. By turning ring’s structure on its backside, Erin Wahed has created the “flying” adornment. Rings that appear to be hovering beneath your knuckles? Gimme dat!
Let Phoebe Philo teach you a lesson or two about creating a global lifestyle brand. She’s done so in only a few collections at Celine and this season is no different. If anything, she’s signaling a broadening of the brand; adding to her color scheme, increasing the amount of buyable coats, and styling the collection as if it were for herself. (Philo knows best.)
Philo’s Celine is a packaged look – this season, its backbone is a tight turtleneck that appears under car-door-inspired coats, lush pieced furs, and latch-strap jackets. Pants came relaxed and wide-legged. Skinny versions were slit at the bottom to appear petalled above the ankle and came replete with leather paneling made to look like luxury automobile interiors. Beautifully colored sweaters harkened back to Philo’s classic personal style, while woodgrain-printed dresses and tops debuted a new sense of modernity.
[Read the rest of my review on TheFashionSpot here.]
Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy has always been influenced heavily by symbolism, love, religion, music, and animals. This collection boasted pieces of it all – both in literal and conceptual depictions – to foster what could be his most marketable season to date. And to think it may be his last at the legacy-laden house: he’s been buzzed about leaving Givenchy for Dior since the Galliano controversy erupted before Paris Fashion Week.
For Fall 2011, Tisci took Givenchy to the streets of East Los Angeles, where Cholo (and Chola) street gangs hold fort. Influenced heavily by hip hop (Tisci was just recently commissioned to design Kanye West and Jay-Z’s collaborative album cover, which looks strikingly similar to the collection at hand), this season was a beautifully executed, at times quirky, take on street aesthetics gone luxurious. See, for example, the gaudy symmetrical silk-print baseball jackets (to which he’s been developing for seasons now – see his Pre-Fall collection) that looked straight from Gianni Versace’s 1990s baroque print archive, to which The Notorious B.I.G. wore famously.
[Read the rest of my review at TheFashionSpot here.]
Alexander McQueen / Fall 2011 / Paris Fashion Week
Is there anything better?
Dresses that peel away like pages of a book to reveal a mismatched under layer and became something of a dress suit? You’ll only find it at Margiela. Conceptually intriguing, this clothing experiment garnered some rather outstanding results. It was all in the details, it seemed, since what looked from afar like a simple sweater set peeled like paint from a wall when eyed up close.
[Read the rest of my runway review on TheFashionSpot here.]
Emilio Pucci / Fall 2011 / Milan Fashion Week
For Fall ’11, Peter Dundas saw his woman as a taut, top-heavy, European bombshell. One whose more apt to dress up than down and looks to be more than comfortable within her own skin. So much so, in fact, she’s amped up her most erogenous feature – le bust. Examine the low-cuts and cinched waists meant to accentuate her hourglass shape, symmetrical Rococo-like treatments used to center the eye, lace peek-a-boos set to frame the breasts, even the positioning of certain sequins – they’re all adept plays on morphing the bustline. Even in his signature asymmetrical backless gowns with Ibizan palettes, Dundas still kept focus on the bosom. Suiting, which appeared slick and ultra-fitted, played upon the theme in a more literal way, flashing cleavage in unbuttoned blazers to purposely reveal the common denominator.
[Read my full review along with more collection pics at TheFashionSpot here.]
Francesco Scognamiglio / Fall 2011 / Milan Fashion Week
In his ninth season showing, Francesco Scognamiglio speaks glamour fluently. But, he’s perhaps at his best when he’s most flagrantly sexual. We are speaking of a man who made his name dressing the queen of all kink (much like Jean Paul Gaultier) – Ms. Madonna Ciccone, during her Hard Candy promo’s. This outing proved to be a lighter, subtler affair from the start with muted gray and light taupes leading into bright white’s and cream’s…
[Read my full review and view more collection pics on TheFashionSpot here.]
click collection name below to view post
Julien Macdonald / Fall 2011 / London Fashion Week
Julien Macdonald flexes with his latest collection. With McQueen gone, it’s easier for Macdonald to get recognized for his spectacular clothes…and for good reason: he’s the best at what does. Play on playa.
Jaeger London / Fall 2011 / London Fashion Week
The historical wool house known as Jaeger makes some of the best coats imaginable. Their latest collection’s color scheme ain’t too bad either.
View highlights below.
Christopher Kane / Fall 2011 / London Fashion Week
One of my favorite contemporary designers, Christopher Kane, debuted his latest collection during LFW which included his most surprisingly trippy 90’s-tinged looks to date. Start heating your lava lamp up now because Kane’s officially brought the 70’s-by-way-of-90’s steez back to the forefront. View highlights below.
Fall 2011 Collections
If you’re a fan of Rein Vollenga‘s sculptures and custom headpieces, be sure to check out his collaboration with Nicola Formichetti for the debut of the new Mugler womenswear this Paris Fashion Week.
New York Fashion Week / Fall 2011 / Snapshots
David Blaine & I @ littledoe.
NAHM debut presentation @ MILK (by Amanda Brooks)
J.Z. reppin’ Zarin Fabrics @ Herve Leger
Jonathan Cohen cookie
My neighbor @ ThreeAsFour wasn’t feeling it…
Lindsey Thornburg and I cuddlin’ close
E-V-E @ The Blonds
With some snakeskin’d beauty @ The Blonds
The Blonds / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Always my favorite show in New York, The Blonds always do it real big for the close of fashion week stateside and this collection proved to be the costume-y couturiers magnum opus.
This time, it looked as though Nicki Minaj will have one hell of a wardrobe. Each piece was without a doubt stitch-by-stitch inspired by her kooky, cartoon-y persona and aesthetic. And though she wasn’t in attendance for the sparkly spectacle, she was there in spirit… just look at the wigs! [Keep it locked for exclusive backstage pics]
Jonathan Cohen / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Below find exclusive lookbook images from Jonathan Cohen‘s latest collection.
RAD by Rad Hourani / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Definitely my favorite Rad outing to date. Loved every bit, especially the styling by my boy, William Graper; which featured crazy variations of black fleece zip-up’s worn in every which way except the usual, along with what looked like a black waxed garment bag strapped and folded to fit certain model’s figures. Big ups to Patti Wilson on consulting duties, too. Below, find a selection of highlights from the collection. [Click thumbnails to enlarge]
InAisce / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Daniella Kallmeyer / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
You may recognize her name from Bravo’s Fashion Show, but, this designer’s much more than just another reality show contestant. Her clothes speak for themselves… and they’re utter poetry. This season, she took it all the way to the dark side and back. Poe would be proud. (Kallmeyer also makes the sickest jewelry imaginable… see below for her bronze knuckle-crusher.)
Frank Tell / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Another stellar collection from my boy Frank!
This time, Tell took it all dystopic on us…
but I’m still smiling.
Jen Kao / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
J. Kao presents… a wardrobe fit for Ms. Minanana.
Happy to see someone’s been listening to the forecast.
It’s raining pink’s, yellow’s, teal’s, and fuschia’s!
Odilon / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
Congrats to Harold Kuhn and Stacey Clark of Odilon on their first-ever NYFW presentation! I must say – their use of antique bronze fringe and pony hair – had me s’riously TURNT OUT. View my favorite looks from the collection below [click thumbnails to enlarge].
photos courtesy of ryan koopmans x odilon
The Row / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
To say I’m floored would be an understatement. This fashion week, The Row debuted looks heralding a new sense of American glamour. From ultra-refined and minimal to mature, aristocratic and divine – the luxury line, now in its fifth season presenting, has developed before our eyes into a redefined yet traditional house (see: from their launch with a singular t-shirt to their current onslaught of elegant LBD’s, handbags, and extravagantly dyed furs) and seems only to get better with time. And the best part is being able to say it was all
‘Made in the U.S.A.’
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littledoe. & Aurora Lopez Meija / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
It’s not often handmade jewelry or headdresses (better yet – bespoke lingerie) draws such an eclectic crowd. But, late Sunday night, in a dimly lit SoHo apartment, littledoe. designer Chase Cohl and custom jeweler Aurora Lopez Meija showcased their latest baubles to some unsuspecting guests and close friends – Adrien Grenier and Theodora Richards watched a special acoustic performance in the living room (by Spider-Man’s Carney) while magician David Blaine pleased partygoers, packed into the dining room, with card and coin tricks.
“Anyone got a quarter?” the illusionist was caught asking throughout
the night. Read my full post on littledoe. for V here.
Carlos Campos / Fall 2011 / New York Fashion Week
I’m proud to announce my involvement in New York [by way of Honduras] designer, Carlos Campos’ latest menswear collection. Above find the invite I designed for the presentation and below read my description of the new collection… and stai toon’d for a separate behind-the-scenes post.
Fall is a season for change, for reflection, for realization. A season that enabled Carlos Campos’ introspective return to his Latin roots. Traveling back in time and across continents, Campos found inspiration in South America’s most beloved poet; the romantic, Mr. Pablo Neruda. From the tip of his newsboy cap and tap of his cigar, Neruda’s stylistic mark is revitalized through Campos’ signature synthesis of old-world craftsmanship and modern male sensibilities. Using the highest quality Italian wool and pima cotton, Campos’ details come alive in relaxed fits cued by Neruda’s cinematically laid back aesthetic. The palette is treated as though its been burnt or left to age, with deep, rich colors such as rust, cognac, midnight blue and hunter green. Many of the wools come speckled, adding a variety of texture and richness to the garments. Shirting comes in solid varieties, ginghams, stripes, and other patterned combinations that when paired together create subtle yet interesting looks. Full length and cropped trench coats exude a sense of modernity whilst remaining true to Neruda’s romantic nostalgia. This is Campos’ ode to common things – bicycles, handwritten letters, and afternoons without plans.